Day 1: Arrive in Paro and Travel to Thimphu

• Altitude in Thimphu: 2,400m
• Distance: 55km
• Estimated travel time: 1.30hrs

Welcome to Bhutan and let’s begin your once-in-a-lifetime adventure in this magical land!

You will arrive at Paro International Airport (2,300m). The first sight of Bhutan that you’ll see from the airplane window is the peaceful yet magnificent picture of great mountain peaks covered by thick blanket of snow. On good days, the white snow blanket glisters under the sunlight, making it a sight to behold for lucky visitors! 

As soon as you walk out of the Arrival Gate, our representative will be waiting for you at the airport. The real journey will start in Thimphu – Bhutan’s charming capital.

On the way from Paro to Thimphu, we will follow Pachu River to the river confluence at Chuzum. You will see sights of small villages on the way to the capital. Before reaching our destination, we will stop at Tachogang Lhakhang (Temple of The Excellent Horse). This impressive temple was founded by Thangtong Gyalpo (1385-1464), a great figure in Bhutanese culture. He is known as a mental emanation of Guru Padmasambhva, a master of the highest Vajrayana teachings and had unparalleled skills as an architect, artist, writer of Ihamo (Tibetan operas) and many more.  Tachogang Lhakhang is a famous work of Thangtong Gyalpo, but he also built many other important monasteries and bridges across the kingdom of Bhutan.

In Thimphu, we will first see a very significant landmark – the National Memorial Chorten. Bhutan’s Third King, His Majesty Jigme Dorji Wangchuk erected the chorten to pray for world peace and prosperity. The iconic Tibetan-style building later became a memorial to the Third King after he passed away. Inside, there are many Buddhist paintings and statues and also 5 red prayer wheels, which people will walk around, turn them and pray. 

After lunch, we will visit Pangri Zampa Lhakhang, one of the most ancient temples in Bhutan. It was built in the 16th century by Ngawang Choegyal, the great-great grandfather of the Zhabdrung. It is believed that the temple appeared in Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal’s vision. Following his vision, he became a resident at Pangri Zampa Lhakhang after traveling from Tibet to Bhutan in 1616. Today, this is a monastic school where Buddhist students learn Lamaism and astrology based on Buddhist philosophy.

Late in the afternoon, we can explore the vibrant streets of Thimphu to fully experience this intriguing destination. Walking between shops and bazaars, cafes, restaurants, and bars, you will see a different, livelier side of Thimphu, besides its historic landmarks. We will also visit the DSB book store. They are the oldest book store in the entire kingdom. It is the place to go to when visitors wish to find a wide range of books on Bhutan, Buddhism, Himalayan Studies Nature, and more. 

We will stay the first night at the hotel in Thimphu. 

Day 2: Thimphu sightseeing

After breakfast, we will take the Thimphu – Phuntsholing national route to Jiminang village. Take a detour from Khasadrapchu towards Jiminang village and continue following the beautiful Tshelung stream, ascending to Tshelung Ney. The ride will be spectacular as you drive along the small Bjemina valley roads, tasseled with cottages and golden rice fields. You will arrive at Tshelung Ney in 40 minutes. From the parking lot, you will start hiking to the main monastery. You will follow the paved footpath, ascend, cross a small river, and explore the sacred wonders here.

Tshelung Ney stands on a gentle slope located west of Thimphu. Guru Rinpoche and Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal blessed the temple and hid many priceless religious treasures around the eighth century.

According to legend, after the Guru’s retreat in Nepal’s Draphu Maratika, he travelled to Tshelung Ney and meditated there before flying to Goen Tshephu, Bhutan’s third Draphu Maratika. Tshelung monastery is hence regarded as the Second Maratika.

Many significant Bhutanese figures have visited the monastery, including:

• Guru Rinpoche
• Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal
• Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyal
• Terton Drukdra Dorji
• The 32nd Je Khenpo Tsheltrim Gyaltshen

You will spend some time here walking around to learn about the sacred wonders at Tshelung monastery:

• Rocky Tent Place, where Guru Rinpoche did His contemplation
• Tse-chhu – a Hundred Dakinis’ holy water for long life
• Hermitage of Khandro Nangkha Dolma
• Hermitage (Drupkhang) of Guru Rinpoche
• Life Lake where Guru Rinpoche hid many treasures
• Lhacham Pemasal’s Skull filled with the water of longevity
• Guru Rinpoche statue created by the 32nd Je Khenpo
• Hand Print of Guru Rinpoche – a large rock with different prints

You will then go to Domtshang Ney. This meditation cave is situated at Bjemina about 25km from Thimphu, on the path to Tshelung Ney. So you will stop here on the way back from Tshelung monastery. From the forest depot, you will ascend for perhaps 15-20 minutes along a winding path shaded by lush vegetation. Before reaching the monastery, you will pass through several holy sites on your way up.

When Guru Rinpoche made his third and final journey to Bhutan in 876 A.D., he blessed a number of holy pilgrimage places, including Domtshang Ney. The name of the monastery is explained by different legends. In the first version, Guru Rinpoche arrived on a bear and meditated in the cave before blessing it. The Cave is referred to as Domtshang, which means “Bear’s Nest.” Another legend holds that Guru Rinpoche tamed the Beast Bear, which lived in the cave and terrified the neighborhood.

Following the path to Domtshang Ney and further up, you will see:

• Meditative Cave of Guru
• Drubchhu (holy water) from a mini cave right near the road point
• Footprint (Zhabjay) of Guru Rinpoche
• Stone Bell hanging from the cliff
• Self-emanated word “Aa”
• Guru Rinpoche’s Soelthab (the Sacred Hearth) and the sacred eye of wisdom (Yeshipai chhen)

After Domtshang Ney, you will visit Samarzingkha Drakna Guru Ney. This holy site is believed to have been blessed by Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century. Moreover, the Dakinis’ sacred texts mention that it is also blessed with innumerable dharma and wealth treasures, medicinal waters, holy waters, etc.

The temple’s Guru Rinpoche statue also holds great significance. According to legend, during its construction, Guru Rinpoche appeared in the form of a lay monk, added a head to the statue, and left behind a magical rainbow.

At the temple, you may see:

• The cave where Guru Rinpoche subdued the evil forces in his wrathful form
• The main statue of Guru Rinpoche
• Cave of the Dakinis
• The secret cave of Yeshey Khando
• The self-arisen imprint of Guru Rinpoche on the rock
• The self-arisen imprint on the rock of Guru Drakmar holding his nine-pointed Vajra

From Samarzingkha Drakna Guru Ney, you will hike for 40 minutes to Tandin Ney. You will ascend for about 200 m to arrive at the Ney. At a height of 2,600 meters, this is one of the holiest places that Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal covered following Guru Rinpoche’s prophetic instruction. The name “Tandin” means “sincere” or “heartfelt,” while “Ney” refers to a holy place.

Due to their unique topographical and geographical alignments, Bhutanese Buddhists believe that certain places possess powerful spiritual energies conducive to positive thoughts and actions. These places, known as “ney” (གནས་), which translates to “abode” or “space for abiding,” can range from entire valleys to individual rocks, trees, or temples. Similar to the alignment of stars and planets that influence specific periods, these sacred sites are believed to be especially beneficial for spiritual development and human well-being. Engaging in meditation and spiritual practices at these ney sites is believed to produce faster and more profound results than elsewhere.

According to a local legend, Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal meditated here for 13 years. Later, Guru Rinpoche blessed this place and hid many ter (spiritual treasures) there. In the 17th century, Terton Drukda Dorji discovered some of these treasures. The statue of Guru Rinpoche at this site has been given the name “Guru Seungjoenma” as legend claims it spoke in the past.

Tandin Ney’s main attraction is the temple devoted to Tandin, a deity who offers the people blessings, good fortune, and protection. People visit the temple to offer prayers, seek guidance, and receive blessings. The temple features traditional Bhutanese architecture, intricate woodwork, and vivid paintings portraying religious and mythological themes.

The trail to the Ney is a pleasant experience, offering breathtaking views of the nearby valleys and occasional sightings of wildlife native to Bhutan. The area around the Ney is surrounded by lush green hills, colorful prayer flags swaying in the breeze, and the gentle sounds of flowing water. 

You will stay overnight at a hotel in Thimphu.

Day 03: Thimphu to Punakha

• Altitude in Punakha: 1,300m
• Distance: 75km
• Estimated travel time: 3hrs

Today, you will travel from Thimphu to Punakha. It was Bhutan’s capital until 1952, when Thimphu was chosen as the new seat of government. As one of Bhutan’s warmest valleys, the valley provides travellers with breathtaking Himalayan views, adrenaline-pumping treks, and tranquil temples.

You will trek the Lungchutse trail en route. It is recommended that you do this trek since it is easy, only 3.5km, and offers breathtaking views. This trail is best hiked from April through June and October through February. With blooming flowers and lush woodlands, springtime offers the best scenery. Also, the Himalayas can be seen magnificently in the winter while hiking or from the Lungchutse monastery.

You will follow this trail Trashigang Goemba – Lungchutse Lhakhang – Dochula Pass. The hike’s starting point is Trashigang Goemba. We will cross a diversion after 30 minutes on the highway, and then it will take another 15 minutes on an unpaved road to get to the goemba in Trashigang village, Thimphu City.

The Trashigang Goemba was established in 1786 by the 12th Je Khenpo and is a significant site for monk meditation. At a height of 3,300 meters, the structure looks out over Hongtsho village. You could stop by quickly before starting your hike.

You will travel through medieval forests home to spruce, rhododendron, hemlock, and juniper trees. On foggy days, the forests will feel like doorways leading to another planet, exactly like in fairy tales. You will go up the mountain, passing a farm road. Afterward, the path will climb zigzag-style through the trees until it reaches the front of Lungchutse Lhakhang.

On a clear day, you can enjoy a 360-degree view of the Himalayas from the ridge. Some of the prominent mountains include Jumolhari (7,314m), Masang Gang in the region of Laya (7,158m), Zongophu Gang – a table mountain that dominates the isolated region of Lunana (7,060m), and Gangkhar Puensum (7,520m), the highest peak in Bhutan.

Lungchutse Lhakhang, built in the 16th century, underwent renovations in 2008 under the supervision of Her Majesty the Queen Mother Dorji Wangmo Wangchuck to commemorate the “inspirational leadership” of the fourth king.

You will go to Dochula Pass after touring the monastery and taking in the vista from here. The path winds through forests and an open meadow as it descends. You will keep going down until you reach the mountain pass.

Once we return to the road, you will soon see Dochula Pass (3,050m), one of Bhutan’s most breathtaking mountain passes. The 108 “Druk Wangyal Chortens” honor the soldiers who lost their lives in the battle against Indian insurgents. From the crossing, you can enjoy a breathtaking view of the snow-capped peaks of the Himalayas.

You will stay overnight at a hotel in Punakha.

Day 4: Punakha sightseeing

From the hotel, we will drive for about an hour to reach Tshechudra in Gasa. 

Tshechudra is situated beneath Gasa Dzongkhag on the opposite side of Goen Tshephu.

According to legend, Guru Rinpoche flew from Goen Tshephu Ney to Tshechudra, where he collected longevity water for the benefit of sentient beings. It is one of the “four cliffs” that Guru Rinpoche entrusted to Phajo Drugom Zhigpo in his prophetic dream. The other three cliffs are in Wangdue Phodrang, Gomdra, and Thujedra in Paro and Thimphu.

When exploring Tshechudra, you will get to visit:

• A spot to make a mandala offering
• A cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated
• Guru Rinpoche’s seat
• Amrita (drink of the devas) streaming out of three spots

Next, you will travel to Goen Tshephu Lhakhang in Goenshari Gewog under Punakha Dzongkhang. This cave is referred to as the third Maratika, while Tshelung Lhakhang in Thimphu is the Second Maratika. 

Guru Rinpoche is believed to have meditated for 3 months in the cave of longevity. It is, therefore, the most sacred cave since it is where Guru Rinpoche first met Buddha Amitayus, heard his message, and received his empowerment.

In its history, this cave has received blessings from many Bodhisattvas:

• Guru Rinpoche
• Terton Dorje Lingpa
• Gyalse Gyaltshen
• Yongzin Ngawang Drakpa
• Thukse Dawa
• Trulku Gyaltshen Pelzang
• Phajo Drugom Zhigpo

As said, since Guru Rinpoche and many important figures were here, there are various wonders to discover at this place:

• Guru Rinpoche Suung-Joen (self-spoken) Statue
• The Long Live Vase
• 21 Tara’s Mandala
• Guru Rinpoche’s Throne
• Guru Rinpoche’s Kitchen
• The self-embossed Guru Mantra “OM AH HUNG”
• The wish-fulfilling tree (Pasam Jinshing)
• Chhimed Tshe Chu (holy water of longevity)
• The gold-plated replica of Zhabdrung’s hat

You will stay overnight at a hotel in Punakha.

Day 05: Punakha to Gangtey

• Altitude in Gangtey: 2,900m
• Distance: 87km
• Estimated travel time: 3hrs

In the early morning, we will drive for 2 hours to reach the starting point of the hike, Beyul Langdra. It is located at Kazhi Gewog in Wangdue Phodrang Dzongkhag. Beyul Langdra is one of the most sacred religious sites in Bhutan. Hundreds of devotees travel to this site every year to seek blessings from the holy monuments that Guru Padmasambhava is thought to have left behind during the eighth century. This area is considered by Buddhists to be a true paradise.

According to oral legend, as Guru Rinpoche was meditating here, a vicious local deity in the form of a bull arrived to attack and distract him. However, using his supernatural powers, Guru Rinpoche, as the manifestation of Guru Ugyen Dorji Gur, subdued the deity and made him the guardian deity and Dharma protector.

Guru Rinpoche is thought to have placed more than 60 holy treasures on and around the cliff for prophesied treasure revealers to locate. As a result, this place’s name, Beyul Langdra, came to mean “The Hidden Treasure of the Bull Cliff.” Today, it has a retreat center at the foot of the valley called Drupdra Ozer Samtenling.

Over the centuries, the place was blessed by many great Buddhist Masters and visited by popular treasure discoverers:

• Kuenkhen Longchen Rabjampa 
• Tersay Drakpo Ozer
• Pema Lingpa
• Terton Dorji Lingpa
• Sherab Mebar

Despite this, even they had little knowledge about the location. People didn’t notice it until 1988 when His Holiness Chatral Rinpoche announced the discovery of this holy location.

Beside Bay Langdra Ney stands a majestic tree towering at a height of 94.6 meters. According to local beliefs, this tree was once the walking stick of Guru Rinpoche, and it is said to contain precious relics within.

Upon exploring Beyul Langdra, you will get to see:

• The sacred rock with Guru Rinpoche’s magical seal and footprint
• A 10-foot tall statue of Guru Ugyen Dorji Gur
• Two 6-foot tall statues of Khandro Yeshi Tshogyal and Khandro Mandarawa

To get to the Beyul Langdra, you will need to hike for 3–4 hours. As you travel along the road through ancient forests, you will pass numerous locations where colorful prayer flags are strung up. Beyul Langdra will come into view when you ascend approximately halfway and rest in a meadow. The hike’s surroundings are serene and dreamlike.

After visiting Beyul Langdra, we will drive to the hotel in Gangtey and stay overnight at a hotel here.

Day 6: Gangtey sightseeing

Today, you will visit the significant landmarks of Gangtey. Gangtey (or Phobjikha) is a bowl-shaped glacier valley located on the western slopes of the Black Mountains, adjacent to Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park. This area of Bhutan is regarded as one of the most enchanting due to its varied landscape and abundant flora and fauna.

The first site to see will be Gangtey Goemba. The monastery stands on a forested hill overlooking the green expanse of the entire Phobjikha valley.

The 15th-century treasure hunter Pema Lingpa predicted that a goemba named gang-teng (hilltop) would be erected on this site and that his teachings would spread from here while on a trip to the Phobjikha valley. A Nyingma temple was constructed here in 1613 by Pema Thinley, the reincarnation and grandson of Pema Lingpa.

Beautiful statues of Guru Rinpoche and other deities may be found inside the monastery. There are also exquisite religious images and paintings in Gangtey Goemba’s buildings.

You will then trek the Gangtey Nature Trail. It is a popular and delightful climb, especially for those looking to experience the wonders of Gangtey Valley. The paths will descend from a tiny mountain above Gangtey Goemba via magnificent meadows and finally to Semchubara hamlet. Following the hamlet will bring you to a dense grove of blue pines. You will treasure the opportunity to get close to nature while seeking out creatures in the forest.

The next destination will be Kumbo Lhakhang, just 2km northeast of Gangtey Goemba. The Lhakhang, a two-story structure with Bhutanese architecture, faces the five buildings that make up Kumbu town.

The monastery was founded in the 17th century, under the direction of Tibetan Lama Zhabdrung Tsenden Dawa. According to legend, a goat and sheep guided the Tibetan Lam to where he built the Lhakhang. This is why the area is known to the locals as “Ne ra lu nyi ki de,” which translates to “the holy spot of the goat and sheep.”

The main temple’s statue of the Medicine Buddha, known as “Sangay Mela,” is a special sight since the Lhakhang believes that ill individuals who pray to the Medicine Buddha will receive blessing and healing.

The final site to visit today will be Nyelung Dechenling, one of the eight residences of Nyingma Dzogchen master Longchen Rabjam (Longchenpa). As you are here, the monk may tell you historical tales and show you some fascinating relics. You will also receive blessings with the religious picture called Thangka, which contains the handprints of Master Longchen.

You will stay another night at the hotel in Gangtey.

Day 7: Gangtey to Trongsa 

• Altitude in Trongsa: 2,200m
• Distance: 200km
• Estimated travel time: 5hrs

Guru Rinpoche also went to numerous places in Trongsa. Trongsa is a mountainous town in central Bhutan known as the “heart” of the Himalayan Kingdom. Its name translates to “new town” in Bhutanese. Bhutan’s largest dzong and several major sites are in this historically significant area.

We will head to the sacred Nabji Lhakhang. The road from Trongsa town to the temple (120km – 2 hours of driving) is small and winding, so driving will take longer than usual.

The temple is situated 2,156 meters above sea level in Nabji village, in the middle of a field and enclosed by a wall. Nabji village is in a vast green valley that appears to be a natural concave circular mandala.

The Lhakhang gets its name from the village. The word “Nabji” originates from Na Boe, which means “taking an oath.” 

According to history, one of King Sindha’s three sons, Kunjom, was exiled to a nation called Sindhu, which is close to Bhutan. Later, he succeeded as Sindhu’s king. He fled to Bhutan after being attacked by King Nawoche. 

Years later, in a battle with King Nawoche, his son Tala Mebar was killed, infuriating King Sindhu to the point where he destroyed his gods and temples. His life force was taken away as punishment from the gods. Guru Padmasambhava was invited to heal him and make peace with Nawoche. The king was eventually cured, and a truce took place in Nabji (oath village), where both kings made oaths to keep the peace. In Nabji village, in the heart of Bhutan, both kings swore a pledge of friendship by placing their hands on a stone pillar (sna do).

The traditional Bhutanese-style, one-story Nabji Lhakhang temple is enclosed by a wall. As you enter, you’ll find a hallway with a few prayer wheels and a room outside the temple chapels that is sometimes used for preparing ritual cakes and other times as a storeroom for festival items.

There is a giant sacred tree here, which is over 134 years old and stands over 40m tall. Legend has it that it was once the walking staff of Guru Rinpoche. Guru summoned King Nowoche and King Sindha to the site of the current Lhakhang and constructed a monolith with both kings’ handprints.

At the Lhakhang, you may admire:

• Wall paintings by a Tibetan man named Lhalung Choki Wangchuk of Thangtong Gyalpo (Chagzampa 1385–1464), Dorje Lingpa, Pema Lingpa, and members of their lineage, as well as Green Tara and Thangtong Gyalpo.
• Statues of Guru Rinpoche, Chenrezig (Avalokiteshvara); Chagtong Chentong (Avalokiteshvara with one thousand eyes and arms); Chana Dorje (Vajrapani); Future Buddha Jowo Jampa; Terton Dorje Lingpa; the Four Guardian Kings in the inner chapel.
• Wall paintings of the Three Long Life Deities, Marpa, Milarepa, the great Kagyu saints, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel, and the Eight Manifestations of Guru Rinpoche.
• A tree that is believed to be the walking stick of Guru Rinpoche
• A rock with the footprints of Dorje Lingpa and his horse

You will stay overnight at a local house in Nabji village.

Day 8: Discover Trongsa

After breakfast, you will hike to Korphu Village, the farthest village in Trongsa district. It will take 1.30 hours to walk from Nabki village to Korphu village.

The village is part of Jigme Singye Wangchuck National Park and is connected by only farm roads. The name “Korphu” is derived from the words “gour,” which means “stone,” and “pho,” which means “cave,” making it literally “stone cave.”

The Second Buddha, Guru Rinpoche, is thought to have created the settlement of Korphu. According to legend, Gyab Sindu Raja and Nachoe (Big Nose), who had been against each other, made a vow on the stone still in Nabji when Guru Rinpoche reconciled them.

You will spend time exploring Korphu Lhakhang. It is a two-story Bhutanese building on a hill overlooking the scenic Nabji valley. According to oral history, the temple was erected in the 15th century after being foretold by the famous treasure discoverer Pema Lingpa.

The relics that are present at the Lhakhang include:

• The sacred scripture of Transcendental Wisdom in 8000 Stanzas
• Pema Lingpa’s hats (ugyen pezha), girdle
• Statues of Guru Rinpoche; Buddha Shakyamuni; Avalokiteshvara (Chenrezig); the famous Thangtong Gyalpo; and the legendary King Gesar of Ling

In the late afternoon, you will hike back to Nabji village and spend the night a local house there.

Day 9: Trongsa to Bumthang

• Altitude in Bumthang: 2,800m
• Distance: 190km
• Estimated travel time: 5hrs

Today, you will leave Trongsa for Bumthang, which translates to “beautiful region” in Bhutanese. It lives up to its name with its pristine forests, imposing mountains, and vast, verdant valleys. It has earned the nickname “strict heartland of Bhutan” as it is the location of the majority of the nation’s oldest Buddhist temples.

There are numerous tales to be told about Bumthang. And you will spend several days discovering the interesting history of this land.

Legend has it that Bumthang was one of the valleys where Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo (7th century) constructed one of the 108 temples he built throughout the Himalayas. However, Bumthang was fully converted to Buddhism by Guru Rinpoche (Padmasambhava) in the 8th century after he helped Sendarkha, the monarch of Bumthang, regain his health. It is thought that Guru Rinpoche left behind many remnants in this valley.

Bumthang became home to famous Tibetan saints of the Nyingmapa school, including Pema Lingpa (1450–1521), Longchen Rabjam (1308–1363), and Dorje Lingpa (1346-1405). 

Along the way, you will explore Trongsa Dzong and Ta Dzong. 

Trongsa Dzong towers above the raging Mangde Chhu River. The complex, completed in 1644, is considered Bhutan’s most exquisite dzong. The distinctive architecture of Trongsa Dzong attracts the eye from afar. The structures descend the slope and are connected by alleys with large stone staircases. There are lovely paved courtyards between each building. Trongsa Dzong was the first seat of power for the Place of Wangchuck before it was transformed into an administrative building.

Ta Dzong is strategically built above Trongsa Dzong. It is a short, steep walk from Trongsa’s main town. Choeje Minjur Tenpa, the first governor of Trongsa, built the watchtower (translated from Bhutanese) in 1652. It reopened as a museum in 2008, with 11 galleries displaying some of the monarchy’s rare and priceless artifacts.

You will stay at a hotel in Bumthang. 

Day 10: Discover Bumthang

Today’s adventure will start with Jambay Lhakhang. It is 1km south of the Kurjey monastery and 4km north of the district headquarters. The famous temple is believed to have been built in 659 by the Tibetan king Songtsen Gampo on the same day as Kyichu Lhakhang in Paro. Legend has it that Jambay Lhakhang and Kyichu Lhkhang were two of the 108 temples erected by the Tibetan King in just one day to subdue a demoness. While other buildings pinned down her vital points, like her heart and shoulders, Jambay Lhakhang was on her left knee. 

Guru Rinpoche visited the temple in the 9th century. He preached the Kagye cycle teachings to King Sendhaka and his court from the temple’s roof.

Walking around the temple, you will come across:

• A painting of Jowo Jampa – the Buddha of the Future
• A statue of Guru Rinpoche in the alcove where he mediated
• A chain mail made by Pema Lingpa
• Ancient murals depicting 1000 Buddhas

Next, you will move to Kurjey Lhakhang, located at Drakmar Dorje Tsekpa (the red cliff of stacked scepters), just 1km from Jambay Lhakhang. The temple provides an excellent picture of the Bumthang valleys.

Because it enshrines the body print of Guru Rinpoche, Kurjey Lhakhang is one of Bhutan’s most revered temples. Furthermore, Guru Rinpoche is thought to have found it to be the first sacred site in Bumthang.

It is said that Guru Rinpoche traveled to Bumthang to subdue the local deity Shelging Karpo and retrieve King Sindhu Raja’s sog. Prior to the battle, Guru Rinpoche meditated in the cave of the red cliff, leaving his kur (body) jey (print) on the cave’s rock surface. That was how this temple got its name.

At the sacred temple, you can see:

• Cave of the red cliff (Drakmar Dorje Tsekpa), where Guru Rinpoche meditated.
• Self-arisen body imprint of Guru Rinpoche
• Guru Lhakhang, Sampa Lhundrup Lhakhang and Ka Gon Phor Sum Lhakhang
• The figure of a snow lion with a Garuda (Jachung)
• Cypress tree grew from the Guru’s walking stick
• Kurjey Drupchu (holy water)

Kurjey Drupchu is a source of blessing not just for the people of Bumthang but also for people from all over the world. Guru Rinpoche extracted the water to ease King Sindhu Raja’s illness. People today think that this water offers health benefits, including the ability to treat diseases and soothe physical aches.

Tamshing Monastery is located on the other side of the river from Kurjey Lhakhang, so you can choose to walk or drive to the site. The Tamshing Lhendup Chholing (Temple of the Good Message) is Bhutan’s most important Nyingma goemba. 

Guru Pema Lingpa founded this place in 1501 with the assistance of khandromas (female heavenly beings), who sculpted many statues. Pema Lingpa was pleased with the near-completed building and placed his footprint on a stone that now lies on the temple’s main shrine. 

The night before the consecration ceremony, Pema Lingpa had a dream in which 5 tantric practitioners (ngagpa) showed him how to perform sacred dances during the ritual. The property was privately held by his successors until 1960.

Here are the wonders to admire at the Tamshing Monastery:

• Paintings by Pema Lingpa
• The footprint of Pema Lingpa
• A huge prayer wheel in Mani Dungkhor Lhakhang
• The oldest Guru Rinpoche statue in the world
• Statue of Pema Lingpa
• 100,000 old paintings of Sakyamuni

Lhodrak Kharchu Monastery, a Buddhist Nyingmapa Monastery of the Jangter Tradition. The monastery stands on a hillside that overlooks Jakar Dzong and the valley of Jakar town. The monastery, which Namkhai Nyingpo Rinpoche founded in the 1970s, is now home to about 400 monks.

The story has it that in the 9th century when Guru Rinpoche visited this location, he and Khandro Yeshe Tsogyal would mediate together.

Here you will see:

• Massive statues of Guru Rinpoche, the Buddha, Rigzin Goedem, Chenresig and Sakyamuni
• Painting of the Fifth Dalai Lama
• The mass debating between monks, in which they reinforce their theological arguments with a stamp of the foot and a victorious slap.

The last place to discover today will be Konchogsum Lhakhang. Just 400 meters below Tamshing, the present construction you will see is the new one. The original site was almost entirely destroyed by a fire in 2010, and the current temple was restored in 2014. 

There are two alternative interpretations of the temple’s foundation. One version says it was established in the 7th century by the great Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo. Another story claims that Tibetan King Trisong Detsen built this temple in the eighth century under the guidance of Guru Rinpoche. Guru Rinpoche was thought to have designed and consecrated the temple.

Konchogsum Lhakhang was visited by great Buddhist masters, including:

• Guru Rinpoche
• Pema Lingpa
• Tibetan Dzongchen Master Sogdopa Lodro Gyaltshen

You will find these wonders at the temple:

• A broken bronze bell (Chodril) – a gift from a Tsomen (Mermaid) to Guru Rinpoche
• Statue of Nampar Namsey (Vairocana, one of the five Dhyani Buddhas)
• Statues and paintings of Guru Rinpoche, Avalokisvara, Kunken Longchen Rabjam, Terton Pema Lingpa, & great Dzongchen master Jigme Lingpa

You will continue to stay at the hotel in Bumthang.

Day 11: Explore Bumthang

After breakfast, we will drive about 30 minutes to get to the starting point of the Shugdra hike. Shugdrak is one of Guru Rinpoche‘s four cliffs (Dra-Zhi) in the upper Choekhor valley of Bumthang. It is believed that this sacred cliff was blessed by Guru Rinpoche and concealed numerous treasures.

The sacred cliff is located in Bumthang’s upper Chhoekor valley, about an hour and a half’s walk from Thangbi over a forested trail. The hike up to the temple is relatively easy, and the view from the top is stunning.

Guru Rinpoche blessed Shugdrak as a meditation cliff with numerous treasures. Terton Pema Lingpa is said to have subsequently discovered several of them. Furthermore, many lamas picked this location as a retreat destination:

• Bakha Trulku
• Rigdzin Khamsum Yongdröl – the eighth Bhakha Tulku
• The Tenth Bhakha Rinpoche

The artifacts available to visitors here are:

• Meditation Cave;
• Handprint, Footprint, and Boot Print of Guru Rinpoche;
• Self-Arisen A;
• Guru Rinpoche’s walking stick;
• Footprints and Holy Water of Khandro

Next, you will learn about the history of Zhabjithang Lhakhang, located in the upper Chhoekhor Valley, above the town of Zhabthang, near the Chhoekhor Toe Primary School. The Lhakhang is a two-story structure that resembles a home but has a distinct red band and a row of prayer wheels.

Guru Rinpoche is said to have meditated at Zhabjithang in the 8th century Padmasambhava, leaving many imprints in the rocks that are widely revered relics. Thus, the location is recognized as “The Plain of the Footprint.”

Some other famous figures who were here:

• Guru Rinpoche’s consort, Tashi Khyidren
• The great Drukpa Kagyupa master Jamgon Ngawang Gyeltshen
• Lama Changchub Tsongru

Sacred relics you will be able to see at Zhabjithang:

• Footprints of Guru Rimpoche & his consort Menmo Tashi Khyidren
• A throne (Zhug Thri) of Guru Rinpoche
• A tree believed to be Guru’s walking stick
• A firefighting competition at the Chaw Dhugpa festival

The last place to visit will be Thangbi Lhakhang, which stands on a plateau above the Chamkhar River, north of Kurjey Lhakhang.

The 4th Shamar Rinpoche came to Bhutan from Tiber in the 15th century and established the Lhakhang, and Terton Pema Lingpa was the one who planned out the complex’s layout. The temple features two sanctuaries as well as a large temple dedicated to terrifying deities, the Gonkhang.

Some artifacts in Thangbi Lhakhang are:

• Statues of the Past, Present and Future Buddhas
• Portraits of lamas, including the 4th Shamar Rinpoche
• Paintings of Zangdopelri, Guru Rinpoche’s heaven, the paradise of Amitabha (the Buddha of Infinite Light) and Guru Rinpoche removing obstacles
• The iron chain of Pema Lingpa

Thangbi Lhkhang also hosts the Thangbi Mewang – Fire Blessing Festival of Thangbi annually from the 14th-16th day of the eighth lunar month. The three villages – Thangbi, Goleng and Karsath join forces to organize this festival. The highlight performances are the sacred mask dance of Gongor Bernag, a Kagyu protective deity; the Mewang, a Fire Blessing; khandromi cham – a sacred dance of the Kamtshang Kagyu tradition; and Tenwang, the blessings offered to the public on the last day. 

You will stay another night at a hotel in Bumthang.

Day 12: Bumthang sightseeing

We will drive for an hour in the morning to reach Mebar Tsho, or the Burning Lake of Bhutan.

This is one of the kingdom’s most sacred lakes, where Guru Rinpoche left several treasures in the water. Legends have it that later, Terton Pema Lingpa jumped into the water with a burning butter light in his hand to find the treasures. Before entering the lake, Pema Lingpa said, “If I was the true spiritual son of Guru Rinpoche, this lamp will continue to burn and I will recover hidden treasures!” And he did reemerge with the light still burning and the hidden treasures in his other hand. Thus, the holy lake got the name “Burning Lake”.

There are several important artifacts to see here:

• The holy lake
• Portrait of Pema Lingpa and his two sons carved on the rock
• An altar dedicated to Terton Pema Lingpa
• An array of small conical clay mounds called tsatsas

The locals believe that People with fewer sins and spiritual minds are said to be able to see an astounding sight in the clear water lake.

From Mebar Tsho to Drangchel, you will continue to go up to explore Kunzangdrak Lhakhang, one of the most significant Pema Lingpa locations. 

Kunzangdrak Ney is another Dra Zhe (Four Cliffs) blessed by Guru Rinpoche. He came here on his tigress and left his footprints on the rocks near the present Lhakhang.

Kunzangdrak derives its name from a situation in which Pema Lingpa encountered Kuntu Zangpo (Samantabhadra), one of the primordial Buddhas, while gazing up from his birthplace.

Terton Pema Lingpa is said to have established the Kunzangdrak monastery on the edge of a cliff around 1488. It comprises three temples: Wangkhang, Oezerphug, and Khandro Lhakhang. The cave where Pema Lingpa meditated is located in the heart of Wangkhang, the main and oldest temple.

The sixth Namkhai Nyingpo also came here and participated in religious practices such as meditation and prayer.

Once at the Kunzangdrak Lhakhang, you may see:

• A life-like figure of Pema Lingpa and his golden footprint and a stone throne
• The meditation cave of Pema Lingpa’s son
• A holy spring that cures epilepsy and stroke
• Pema Lingpa’s meditation cave
• A chorten that houses the remains of Pema Lingpa’s mother

You will spend the night at a hotel in Bumthang.

Day 13: Discover Bumthang

After breakfast, we will drive about 20 minutes to the starting point of the Thowadra trek, near the Karap suspension bridge. Even though it is a medium-level hike, the scenery is stunning.

Thowadra Monastery (Thowadra means high cliff) is one of Bumthang’s most significant pilgrimage locations. Thowadra Cave is said to have been founded by Mandarava, Guru Rinpoche’s consort, and Guru himself is said to have meditated there in the 8th century. The monastery was founded in 1238 by Gyelwa Lorrepa Dragpa Wangchuk and named after the cliff it sits on at an altitude of 3,400 meters.

Due to the monastery’s unique location, you will first walk for nearly an hour along the dirt road, then follow a scenic riverside walk. Then, you will pass several chortens, shrines, and tranquil woodlands before climbing steep steps for the last 40 minutes to reach the site. 

Many prominent masters visited this place in the past:

• Guru Rinpoche
• Mandarava
• Kashmiri princess Gelongma Pelmo
• Kunkhen Longchen Rabjam
• Terton Dorji Lingpa
• Pema Thinley
• Choeje Ngawang Thinley

Because the monastery was visited by such important figures, there are quite a few wonders to admire:

• Cave where Guru Rinpoche & Gelongma Pelmo meditated
• Holy Drupchhu of Guru & Gelongma Pelmo
• Guru Rinpoche’s stone throne
• Dakinis’ bathtub
• Tsari Nungma (bamboo) from Tsari Ney of Tibet

Later, you will visit Tang Rimochen Lhakhang, located at 2,727 meters, near Misethang village. As you are at Kunzangdrak Lhakhang, you will hike up and reach the Tang Rimoche. 

It is believed that Guru Rinpoche meditated on a giant rock and left many treasures there. A local deity attacked him and turned him into a rock; hence, it had many vertical yellow stripes and was called Tang Rimochen (meaning ‘an impression of a tiger’s stripes’). 

In the 14th century, Pema Lingpa found the hidden treasures at the exact location – a text and a Buddha statue and built the Lhakhang there. 

Visiting the Lhakhang, you may see:

• Tiger stripes on the rocks
• Footprints of the 8-year-old daughter, the “Lotus Princess” of King Thrisong Detsen
• Guru Rinpoche’s bathing tub 
• Imprints of Guru Rinpoche and his consort, Yeshey Tsogyal, in an embrace 
• Handprints and footprints of the Guru and his consort Yeshe Tsogyal on the cliff face
• Two large rocks that represent male and female Jachung
• Duethro sewotshel (cremation grounds), the replicas of Guru Zangthopelri’s cremation

You will stay another night at the hotel in Bumthang.

Day 14: Explore Bumthang

We will drive to Tharpaling Monastery, but first, we will hike for 30 minutes to see the Künkhyen Longchen Rabjam statue. He is revered as one of the greatest masters and scholars in the Nyingma tradition. The trail is quite steep, but it offers a nice change of scenery, from lush forests to the vast landscape of the valley. 

Then, you will hike 15 minutes down to Choedrak Monastery. Choedrak was one of Guru Rinpoche’s four sacred meditation cliffs. Lorepa (1187-1250), the Drukpa Kagyupa master who founded Chodrak, is credited with the monastery’s first settlement. Above Chodrak Monastery is Guru Rinpoche’s meditation cave, Longchenpa’s rock throne, and a rock throne where Longchenpa wrote part of the Seven Treasures.

The last place will be Tharpaling Monastery (the place of liberation). The monastery is located at roughly 3,600m, overlooking the scenic Chumey Valley. Lorepa, a Drukpa Kagyupa Master from Tibet, is thought to have found it in the 12th century. The structure holds statues of Guru Rinpoche, Longchen Rabjam, and Trisong Detsen, the eighth-century Tibetan King, as well as paintings depicting Amitabha’s paradise and Guru Dewa, a seldom seen secret manifestation of Padmasambhava. Today, the monastery remains an important pilgrimage site for the Bhutanese.

You will stay another night at the hotel in Bumthang. 

Day 15: Explore Bumthang

After breakfast, we will drive to Singkhar village. The village, located on a plain at 3,400 meters, is about 9km from Bumthang centre. There are about 47 households in the village.

Dechenling Singkhar Lhakhang is one of the ‘Eight Lings’ (monastic seats), founded by Longchen Rabjam (1308 – 1364) – one of the greatest scholars in the Nyingma tradition of Tibetan Buddhism. The two-story building embraces the traditional Bhutanese style and has undergone several renovations and expansions since it was first erected. 

Singkhar Rabney festival is held at Dechenling Singkhar Lhakhang for 5 days, between the 21st – 25th days of the eleventh lunar month. This festival commemorates the founding of this temple and its founder – Longchen Rabjam, and celebrates his spiritual legacy. Highlight performances include the 3 masked dances, dedicated to Lhagon Choechong (Yak Dance), the Dance of Durthroe Lhamo and Maning Nagpo, and the Drangsong (Rahula) Dance. 

Later, we will drive to Ura village for the Ura Guru Lhakhang. Nestled at 3,200 meters above sea level, the picturesque Ura village boasts awe-inspiring landscapes. The verdant woodlands that envelop the village are adorned with charming farmhouses, watermills, and temples. The village is named after Ugyen Guru Rinpoche. According to local legend, Ugyen Guru Rinpoche came through Ura valley in the 8th century and blessed it as his hidden valley. 

Ura Guru Lhakhang is where the Ura Yacheok Tshechu Festival is held annually. People believe it was built in the 19th century, but no one knows for sure. The major relic at the temple is a bronze Guru Rinpoche figure that is supposed to have been created by a 17th-century artisan named Pentsadeva.

The event lasts 5 days, from the 12th to the 16th of the third Bhutanese lunar month. It is said to have begun to commemorate Guru Rinpoche’s presence in the village to help residents overcome an epidemic. There are multiple public performances, including spiritual practice, religious worship, cultural celebration, and social gathering. A Vajrayana Buddhist meditation ceremony centered on Chagna Dorje and his entourage will be held on the evening of the first festival day.

You will stay at the homestay in Ura village.

Day 16: Bumthang to Lhuntse

• Altitude in Lhuntse: 1,500m
• Distance: 230 km
• Estimated travel time: 8hrs

We will leave Bumthang and travel east of Bhutan. During Guru Rinpoche’s second trip to Bhutan, he went to Lhuentse, Mongar, and Trashigante. Unlike the west, the eastern area of Bhutan is significantly more remote and far from the capital. The road conditions are less than ideal, and hotels often lack basic amenities. Few people travel to this region of the country.

Lhuentse Dzongkhag covers an area of approximately 2,808 km2. It is bounded west by Bumthang, south by Mongar, east by Trashiyangtse, and north by Tibet. Although Lhuentse is the ancestral home of Bhutan’s rulers, it is one of the country’s most distant and underdeveloped dzongkhags. The altitude range is 900-6,300 meters, with pleasant summers and freezing winters. The dzongkhag is well-known for its traditional weaving of silk textiles sold throughout Bhutan.

Eastern Bhutan was once ruled by a collection of different small kingdoms and served as a vital trade route between India and Tibet. Goods were transported from Bhutan to the Tibetan town of Lhodrak via Singye Dzong in the Lhuentse region.

Singye Dzong is a huge rock on the historical trade route connecting Bhutan and Lhodrak in Tibet. This is a holy place where Guru Rinpoche meditated and a sought-after spot for Bhutanese pilgrims. Despite its immense respect, Singye Dzong is one of the most isolated regions in Bhutan, and it can only be reached through a challenging three-day hike. Additionally, it is impossible to access it by road, and visitors are not allowed to enter.

Singye Dzong contains eight dzongs that are all embedded in rocks. The dzongs are thought to be Guru Rinpoche’s eight manifestations. Aside from the dzongs, devotees also visited Lake Tshokar, Tshonag, and Terdha Latsho. 

On the way, we will stop at Khaine Lhakhang (or Khinyel Lhakhang), located on the old path or jalam between Bumthang and Lhuentse. This Lhakhang, known in scripture as Mon Tamnyen Lhakhang, was established soon after the construction of Paro Kyichu Lhakhang and Bumthang Jampa Lhakhang in the 8th century.

Some say that the isolated Khaine Lhakhang is one of the 108 temples established by King Songtsen Gampo in 659 to battle the gigantic ogress. The most well-known temples are Kyichu Lhakhang in Paro, which holds the left foot, and Jambay Lhakhang in Bumthang, which pins the left knee. 

During your visit to the temple, you will notice three important statues. The central statue stands at a height of 2.5 meters and portrays Sakyamuni Buddha. To the right of this statue is the statue of Karmapa, and to the left is the statue of Zhabdrung Rinpoche. There are also smaller statues of Milarepa and Guru Rinpoche. The primary protective deity is Taxan, who is depicted as a fierce god riding a horse.

We will drive to Khoma village, a little clustered settlement in Lhuntse Dzongkhag’s Khoma Gewog. It is around 13km from the hamlet of Lhuntse. At an elevation of 1,350 m, the village is constructed on the bank of Khoma Chhu. The town is famous for weaving Kush Thara, a very detailed and valuable women’s garment.

After hearing a horrifying tale of an evil spirit that had entered the village to escape the wrath of Khando Machi Choden for causing the death of a young prince who was believed to be a brother of Songsen Goenpo, Ugyen Guru Rimpoche arrived in Khomo. Ugyen Guru Rinpoche defeated the evil spirit with his powers, making him the local god Nyapo Dabo Gyeltshen.

The two-story Khoma Lhakhang is an important landmark in Khoma Village. It was built in the 12th century by Gelong Kado and Lam Zhangpa. Lam Zhangpa was born in the Tibetan town of Zhamling and was a well-known Drukpa Kagyud Buddhist scholar. The flooring at Khoma Lhakhang is unique in that it is done with stones on both floors rather than wooden planks. The Lhakhang, a few minutes walk from the roadhead, features an eleven-faced statue of Chenrezig and an image of the local god Yanag Tinkar. On the 15th and 16th days of the 6th lunar month, an annual invocation ritual known as Neypo Soelni is performed for two days.

You will stay overnight at a homestay in Khoma village.

Day 17: Lhuentse sightseeing

Today, we will visit the Rinchen Bumpa monastery (3,050m) in Kurtoe, Lhuentse. Begin the day with breakfast, then drive approximately 40km (taking around 1hrs30) to Dungkhar village in Kurtoe. The village is situated on a ridge shaped like a conch (dungkhar). It is believed that Kuenga Wangpo, Pema Lingpa’s son, settled here. 

From Dungkhar village, we will drive for another 30 minutes to reach the Kuenzangling monastery. From there, you will embark on a 3-4-hour hike involving an ascent of approximately 1,000 m.

Rinchen Bumpa (the Vessel of Jewel) is a sacred place where Guru Rimpoche spent three months meditating. It has been consecrated as a sacred spot for all devotees who will visit there in the future to accrue merits. 

 It is said that the stupa has 100,000 magnificent jewels and precious things (Rinchen) stacked together (Pungpa). As a result, this location was first known as Rinchen Pungpa and then as Rinchen Bumpa. 

Some significant Bhutanese figures have visited this site, including:

• The great master Drimey Ozer aka Kuenkhen Longchen Rabjampa (1308-1363), the first to discover it
• Terton Pema Lingpa
• Terton Ratna Lingpa

The entire site is surrounded by a beautiful setting. The hill behind seems to be decorated with multicolored silk, and at its base is a triangular fire pit for burnt offerings. The streams look like yoenchab, some hills resemble butter cakes, and ridges appear as precious ornament strings. It is believed that being in this place can lead to achieving a rainbow body. For devotees, this is the perfect location to seek blessings for good health, wealth, fame, descendants, livestock, and food.

You will stay overnight at the camp.

*Please be aware that this region is experiencing a water shortage. As you spend the night at the campground, it is crucial to prepare accordingly.

Day 18: Discover Lhuntse

In the morning, we will hike toward Kuenzangling monastery. 

This mysterious place was visited by Guru Rinpoche, the renowned saint Melong Dorji, and Rigzin Kumaza in the 8th century and was blessed by their presence. In the 14th century, Kuenkhen Longchen Ramjampa established a Buddhist teaching center in Kurtoe Kunzangling. Later, the center was maintained by Kuenkhen’s students and devotees, who were known as Longchen Nyingthik, the lineage holders of Longchen Rabjampa. Eventually, the temple was passed on to the lineage holders of Pedling.

Following that, we will go to Dungkhar village and see the Dungkhar Naktshang, which sits above the settlement. The village of Dungkar is the birthplace of Bhutan’s royal family, and the Dungkar Choeje Lhakhang is where the “Wangchuck Dynasty” originated. 

Dreykha and Langkha, descendants of Terton Pema Lingpa, built the structure in 1595. Their three older brothers instructed them to construct the building after being asked to do so by the local deity, Ama Wangchen Zangmo. Many sacred relics and “Terma” discovered by the renowned Terton, such as Terton Pema Lingpa and great Saint Desi Tenzin Rabgay, are housed here.

Additionally, a tshechu is celebrated at Naktsang on the same date as Lhuentse dzong, which takes place from the ninth to the eleventh days of the 10th lunar month. The festival’s highlight is a masked dance that features the Raksha Lango, an ox head mask that was discovered by Terton Pema Lingpa in the 12th century and brought to Dungkar Naktsang from Khowchung.

You will stay at the hotel in Lhuentse.

Day 19: Bangtsho village (Lhuentse) –  Ney Chen Phunyingla (Lhuentse)

• Distance: 13km
• Estimated time: 6hrs
• Ascent: 1,400m
• Camp altitude: 3,800m

Today, we will trek to Nye Chen Phunying, one of Guru Rinpoche’s most holy destinations. After breakfast, we will drive 14 km from the hotel to Bangtsho village, which will take around 1hrs30 as it is a difficult route. Bangtsho village is located 2,360 meters above sea level in Tsengkhar Gewog, in the southern area of Lhuentse District, bordered to the south by Mongar Dzongkhag. When you arrive, you will tour some of the village’s historical attractions before beginning the trek. 

Aja Nye in Mongar and Nye Chen Phunying in Lhuntse are two of Bhutan’s most sacred sites, linked with the peerless lotus-born Guru Ugyen Pema.

Aja Valley and Nye Chen Phunying have long been home to hidden yogis and remain so today. Spiritual seekers searching for the meaning of life frequently spend their whole lives in retreat inside these quiet valleys and mountains. The pilgrims believe that Guru Tsokye Dorji’s blessings are still apparent and very much alive in this remote, green, and lush area. ‘Aja,’ where A should be read as the dzongkhag alphabet letter Aa (ཨ); ‘Ja,’ indicates numerical hundred; ‘Chen,’ means great; and ‘Phunying,’ meaning ‘heart of the mountains.’

Nye Chen Phunying’s history is as old as Aja Nye’s. Guru Rinpoche is said to have spent several months in meditation among the Phunying mountain ridges while pursuing the demon king Khikha-rathoed, who had escaped from Aja to Khempa Jong, which is situated to the north of Kurtoe. Four sacred secret locations are said to be positioned in the four major cardinal directions, with Pema Yangzom (alias for Aja) at the center. Nye Chen Phunying is the western branch and is considered the heart of all mountains on earth, with various spiritual locations related to the lotus flower. Many highly respected Yogis, including Lama Sonam Zangpo in the 1960s, have recently used the Nye as a quiet retreat and meditation refuge. The Nye has around 50 holy locations throughout the circumambulatory path, including emblems of Guru Padmasambhava’s treasure box and impressions of Khandro Drowa Zangmo’s skull.

Nye Chen Phunying sits at an elevation of approximately 3,700 meters above sea level, on Phunying mountain. The journey to this revered location may take up to 5 hours, mostly spent navigating medieval forests. The entire route is uphill, and there are some steep slopes that require extra care when you walk. Upon passing through the first stretch of the forest trail to reach the initial resting spot, you will come across a meadow before re-entering the woods. After 2 hours of trekking, you will get to Dramthang Monastery. 

The Phunying mountain is home to ancient forests that are rich in diverse plant species. The dominant species include broadleaved trees, bamboos, pines, mixed oaks, Quercus Thomsonian, Katus, Persea, Magnolia, Michelia excelsa, Betulaalnoides, Alnus Nepalensis, Beischimediaroxburgii, Prunus, Elaeocarpus sikkimensis, Echinocarpus dasycarpus, and more. The undergrowth consists of Simplocus, Daphnephyllum sikkimensis, Vibernum cordifolium, ferns, sagebrush, and others. Walking through the trees, you can relish the fresh and clean air with a subtle essence of soil while listening to the peaceful whispers of the forest and feeling a sense of tranquility that envelops your body.

As you approach Nye Chen Phunying, you will be treated to a stunning view of Lhuntse Dzong, the Takila Statue of Guru Rinpoche, and several villages across the Kuri Chhu River. This river originates from the Kula Kangri glacier in Tibet, China. After 5 hours of trekking, you will reach Phunying Lhakhang (3,800m). The Nye is only a short distance from the Lhakhang. You will see many praying flags here, and you might even perform some praying. You may also spend time meditating at this site.

*Route 2: Yarab Village – Aja Ney

Instead of trekking from Ney Chen Phunyingla to Aja Ney, you can choose to travel to Mongar and then drive to Yarab village. From the village, it takes approximately 6 hours of hiking to Aja Ney valley (12,9km).

Phunyingla is closed for visitors and pilgrims from the 15th day of the 3rd month till the 14th day of the 9th month in the Bhutanese calendar (5th May 2023 till the 27th October 2023) and opened from the 15th day of the 9th month till the 14th day of the 3rd month (28th October 2023 till the 22nd April 2024), except for year-round residents such as retreatants and temple caretakers.

You will stay overnight at the camp.

Day 20: Ney Chen Phunyingla (Lhuentse)- Aja Ney (Mongar)

• Distance: 14km
• Estimated time: 4-5 hrs
• Descent: 1,240m
• Camp altitude: 2,500m

Today’s track is largely downhill, crossing a mix of different types of woodland. 

You may reach a sacred location Sergi Rangthang, by making a short descent. Before the introduction of the Buddhist dharma, Bhutan was thought to be a deeply dark land where demons ruled over all living creatures, claiming the lives of anyone passing through. A similar location was the stone mill in Nyindukha village, Dagana Dzongkhag (district). “Do Rangthang” was the common name. 

Guru Rinpoche, as remarkable as he was, had already prophesied that demons were killing humanity in that location, so he personally went to the spot and subjugated the demon. He erected a stupa to suppress the demons. After that, people traveling up and down could do so peacefully.

You will pass through some stupas before reaching Dongchenla Pass (3,800m), the border between Lhuentse and Mongar. 

After the pass, you must descend until you reach the Aja Ney campground.

On a clear day, you can see the Tawang Range (also known as Kollong), which marks Bhutan’s eastern border. The Tawang Range is a mountain range in Tibet, northeast of Arunachal Pradesh. You will have a better picture of Pema Yang Dzong when you get closer to Aja Ney.

At a height of about 2,500 meters, Aja Nye is at the base of Phunying and encircled by lush, cool broadleaf forests. Aja refers to the hundreds of numerals of the alphabet “Aa” that emerged on a rock surface, but only a few can be seen today.

People regard Omba Ney in Trashi Yangtse, Aja Ney in Monggar, and Hungrel Ney in Paro as the three most sacred sites of Guru Rinpoche because their names begin with the letters Om, Ah, and Hung, which form the Buddhist Mantra, “Om Ah Hung.”

Reciting one Baza Guru in Aja Ney is deemed equivalent to chanting a thousand times in other places.

Aja Nye’s history dates back to around 830 AD (Wangchuk, 2004). At the time, the Tibetan demon King, Khikha-rathoed (one with a dog’s mouth and a goat’s head), was exiled into a secluded forest to the south. When Guru Rinpoche noticed that the demon king was attempting to stay in Aja Valley, he followed him through Tormi-jangsa and under Tashi Yangtse with the purpose of subduing him. Guru Rinpoche meditated for more than three months in the Aja Valley, waiting for the appropriate opportunity to subjugate Khikha-rathoed. During this time, Guru Rinpoche hid several precious sites and treasures throughout the valley.

Throughout time, this site has been the destination for significant Bhutanese figures:

• Guru Rinpoche
• Terton Ugyen Lingpa
• Terton Rigzin Goeki Dhemthrug
• Lam Karma Jamyang

The wonders you will explore at Aja Ney include:

• A cave with one hundred “Aa” inscriptions
• Guru’s shoe and body prints, Khandro Dowa Zangmo’s footprints
• Guru Rinpoche’s 108 retreat caves, and Lam Karma Jamyang’s footprints, among others
• Aja Menchu, a mineral spring
• Aai Chhu, a stream created by the Guru’s walking staff

Aja Ney is closed for visitors and pilgrims from the 15th day of the 3rd month till the 14th day of the 9th month in the Bhutanese calendar (5th May 2023 till the 27th October 2023) and opened from the 15th day of the 9th month till the 14th day of the 3rd month (28th October 2023 till the 22nd April 2024), except for year-round residents such as retreatants and temple caretakers. This closure of sacred areas is a centuries-old tradition that is still practiced today.

You will stay overnight at the camp.

Day 21: Aja Ney: Nangkor

• Distance: 6.5km
• Estimated time: 7 hrs

Lam Karma Jamyang was given the duty of unlocking Aja Ney in place of his instructor, the ninth Karmapa, Wangchuk Dorji. He journeyed from Tibet to Tagmolung via Tashiyangtse and followed a tiger’s signals. The lama set his base in Dechenphodrang and discovered all nyes by tracing the tiger’s footprints. As a result, Takdong Nye is another name for the famous Aja. Lama Karma Jamyang also constructed the monastery at Dechenphodrang, which resembles a lotus flower, so the monastery is known as Pema Yangdzong. 

Lama Karma Jamyang divided the Ney into 4 circumambulation routes: Ra-kor (base circumambulation), Bar-kor (middle circumambulation), Tsekor (outer circumambulation), and Nangkor (inner circumambulation), each with around 50, 70, 100, and 40 sacred sites, respectively. 

Today, you will conquer the Nagkor path and see the 40 sacred sites strewn along the way. You will first arrive at a meadow with roughly 4-5 sites, including Sharop Gembo Dorji’s Shakhee, Guru’s Soelbam dang Bamoen, and Guru’s Sungkor Gau. Then, continue the trail into the forest and walk along the creek. You will ascend after passing Dungkhar Lhakhang and a suspension bridge, occasionally stopping to hear explanations about the sites you come across. There will be some steep sections, so be cautious and heed the guide’s directions. 

After leaving the wooded trail, you will come to a flat area and observe Wogcho Lu Yuel lay Phuelwai Jangchu chorten. On a clear day, you may see the entire ancient forest we have traversed from this vantage point. 

The remainder of the trail is made up of magnificent forests and lush meadows. You will pause at Pema Yangdzong Temple (2,600m) to hear Lopen Damcheon Dorji explain its history. After crossing a stream and hiking for some more, you will arrive at Nangkor. 

You will stay overnight at the camp.

Day 22:  Aja Ney: Tsekor

• Distance: 7km
• Estimated time: 7 rs

After a hearty breakfast, you will set out on the Tsekor path. The Tsekor trek will take you around the Aja valley, allowing you to soak in the breathtaking scenery – thus, it is also the longest trail. It is, nevertheless, the most difficult of the four trails; one must be fearless of heights and sharp rocks. It is, however, the trail with the most sacred sites – 100 in all. 

Tshekor trail contains Aai Chhu, a stream that cascades from the steep cliffs. This stream emerged after Guru implanted his walking stick in the rock. The creek flows into a rock basin, forming a pool where the Guru is claimed to have bathed. 

The healing water Aja Ney Menchu, blessed by Guru Rinpoche, is said to cure 18 diseases (nayrig-chobgay), including tuberculosis, body pains, ulcers, whooping cough, and many others. Due to the difficult terrain, Guru Rinpoche arrived in the form of a Garuda. Hence, the shape of this Menchu resembles that of a Garuda.

The most famous Ney site is a cave on the bank of Aja Chhu where Guru Rinpoche meditated for 3 months to defeat the Tibetan demon King, Khikha-rathoed. After completing his meditation, Guru Rinpoche is said to have engraved one hundred repeats of the sacred syllable “Aa” on the cave’s interior walls to commemorate his attainment of perfection. In short, the name ‘Aja’ is derived from the hundred syllables of “Aa.”

When the pilgrims see the 100 inscriptions, they are said to have a brief insight and are cleansed of their previous mistakes.

You will stay at the camp.

Day 23: Aja Ney: Barkor

• Distance:  4km
• Estimated time: 6 hrs

Barkor, while not as difficult as Tsekor, also demands extra effort and caution. The number of holy sites on this route is also fewer than only the Tsekor’s – 70 in total. 

The route to the sacred place winds through bamboo groves, meadows, deep forests, and mountain passes. The initial hike to Aja Nye is frequently strenuous due to the steep ascent (Bangtsho village to Nye Chen Phunying). There are many additional sacred caves on this walk where you can meditate and receive blessings. Some parts of the Barkor path are exceedingly slick, while others require you to squeeze through small crevices between massive rocks. 

The breathtaking beauty of the scenery along the trail will captivate your senses, creating a truly unforgettable experience that allows you to connect deeply with nature’s wonders. During the trek, pilgrims will be welcomed by the lovely presence of golden langurs and a delightful chorus of other birds. During the short breaks, take a moment to unwind and appreciate the serene scenery enveloping you. Allow the gentle forest breeze to caress your senses, inviting a sense of tranquility to wash over your soul and bring clarity to your thoughts.

You will come back and stay another night at the campsite.

Day 24: Aja Ney: Rakor

• Distance: 2,5km
• Estimated time: 2 hours

From the campsite, you will head southeast to follow the Rakor trail – the shortest of the 4 routes. There are 50 holy sites located along this path.

The Holy Ney houses various religious monuments and symbols, including Guru’s shoe and body prints, Khandro Dowa Zangmo’s footprints, Guru Rinpoche’s 108 seclusion caves, and Lam Karma Jamyang’s footprints, among others.

Although the trails at the sacred site are muddy and steep, iron ladders have been built for pilgrims’ safety. Phuning Nye is regarded as the heart of all sacred sites in the vicinity and is also called the ‘Heart of All Mountains’ in the world. The sacred place, however, is located in the Lhuntse district. Pilgrims that come to Aja Nye are believed to conclude their spiritual journey at Phuning Nye, as the Nye is regarded as the crown of all sacred mountains. Many Buddhist pilgrims wish to visit Phuning Nye and Aja Nye at least once in their lives. 

You will stay overnight at the campsite.

Day 25:  Aja Ney to Ugyen Draphu (Mongar) 

• Distance: 12.4km
• Estimated time: 5-6 hrs
• Ascent: 1,200m
• Camp altitude: 3,800m

Today’s trail is entirely uphill until reaching the Ugyen Draphu campground. The entire day will be spent trekking through beautiful forests, admiring lovely Himalayan birds and picturesque nature. 

After walking for approximately 10km, you will reach a sacred cave featuring a stupa and a rock where Guru Rinpoche meditated. The cave is 9.6km from Aja Nye and stands at 3,900 meters above sea level. You may meditate here as well, enjoying the fresh energy from the forest and receiving blessings. 

Upon arriving at the campsite, you will have an excellent view of Bhutan’s Western and Eastern Himalayas and parts of the Indian Himalayas in Tawang. 

You will spend the night at the camp.

Day 26: Ugyen Draphu – Sheri Dzong (Mongar-Trashi Yangtse border)

• Distance: 8km
• Estimated time: 3 hrs
• Descent: 600m
• Camp altitude: 3,200m

The trail today is slightly descending and ascending, but largely descending through a magnificent woodland.

Sheri Dzong is a rock cave at an elevation of 3,300 meters that contains a painting of Guru Rinpoche, unlike the traditional Dzong structures that usually have high walls, storage areas, and large prayer halls or monastic dormitories. Guru Rinpoche has blessed eight sacred sites in Tibet and Bhutan.

The term ‘dzong’ originally referred to a difficult-to-reach location. Bhutan has three varieties of Dzong, each representing a distinct political era in the country’s history. The three categories have various characteristics that are impacted by the resources available at the time and their utilization. 

Before Bhutan was unified, numerous religious establishments known as dzongs were created by lamas. These were huge structures compared to conventional home architecture, primarily built on sacred grounds. The second category is those erected by Zhapdrung Ngawang Namgyel and his disciples, or those that followed that architectural style. Because many were created during the war, they are generally located in strategic locations, with thick walls and a watch tower. The last Dzong type dates from the 19th and 20th centuries, closely coinciding with the monarchy period. Most of these dzongs were built by kings in the twentieth century, primarily as royal residences. 

At the Dzong, you can see a waterfall cascading from the rock face that is supposed to have been formed by Guru Rinpoche’s consorts. There are imprints of the sun, moon, and conch shell (Dungkar) at the waterfall’s base. With hundreds of prayer flags ruffled by the wind from the waterfall, the entire space transforms into a dazzling image.

The rock cliff is thought to be a Bumpa (a ritual vase), and the rock surface beneath the waterfall has the appearance of a mirror. The ‘vase’ and ‘mirror’ are used to perform Lhabsang Thrisel, a cleansing and purification ritual for individuals and places to rid them of obstructive and destructive forces. 

The giant rock surface is thought to represent a glass fortress, referring to Guru Rinpoche’s perfect clarity and transparency during his meditation here. You will also meditate here to receive blessings from the sacred site, chasing away the negative energies within your body. 

You will spend the night at the camp.

Day 27: Sheri Dzong to Gangkha village (Trashi Yangtse)

• Distance: 15km
• Estimated time: 4 hrs
• Descent: 1,300m

The trail for today’s trip will mostly go downhill. You will pass through different vegetation types and reach Gangkha village, where your car will await you. From there, we will drive for about 1 hour (20km) on a bumpy road to get to the Trashi Yangtse hotel.

The scenery you will encounter on the trail is beyond what can be described in words. Gangkha village is nested within the Bumdeling Gewog, which is part of the Bumdeling Wildlife Sanctuary. The lush green forests with towering trees will create a picturesque view that will leave you in awe. You will also have the opportunity to witness various birds hopping from one branch to another and singing their melodious tunes. The trees’ vibrant green hues and the natural beauty of the surroundings will paint a breathtaking view you can’t take your eyes off. 

Terton Pema Lingpa termed Trashiyangtse “the fortress of auspicious fortune” during his visit in the 15th century. Trashiyangtse Dzongkhag is bounded to the east by Lhuentse, to the south by Mongar, and to the south by Trashigang. Trashiyangtse District was formed in 1992 after Trashigang District was divided. Trashiyantse is a rural district. It is the district with the greatest distance from the capital, approximately 530km from Thimphu. 

Trashiyangtse, at an elevation of 1,750 – 1,880 meters, is a sacred land with numerous natural and artificial wonders to discover, many of which were blessed by Guru Rinpoche. This is also the birthplace of some of the most prized ancient crafts, such as the making of wooden bowls and Dashi paper. 

You will stay overnight at the hotel in Trashi Yangtse

Day 28: Trashi Yangtse sightseeing

You will visit Chorten Kora in the morning. The huge construction resembles the famous Boudhanath Stupa in Nepal, which was built to subdue demons at the request of people living along the Kholungchu as the place Dhuerong, (valley of demons) was known to be infested with demons causing harm to both humans and animals. The chorten was built over a 12-year period beginning in the 1740s and consecrated on the 30th day of the first Bhutanese month.

Every year, the 15th day of the First Bhutanese month is celebrated as Dhagpakora or Chengyakora, and many members of the Dhagpa community in Tawang attend. Every year, the 30th day of the First Bhutanese month is observed as Namgangkora or Drukpakora.   

You will travel from Chorten Kora to Dongdi Dzong, a historical fortress in Trashi Yangtse, one of the most respected and ancient monasteries in the eastern region of Bhutan. The fortress is situated on a rocky slope, where two rivers, Dongdi Chu and Kholong Chu, meet, offering a mesmerizing view of the flowing water. Inside Dongdi Dzong, you can find the revered relic, Chugchi Zhey, an eleven-faced deity of compassion. As per the legend, a woman discovered this relic by following the whisper of the forest.

Later, you will ascend to Dechen Phodrang. It will take roughly an hour to drive from Dongdi Dzong to Dechen Phodrang Ney Monastery. And after an hour of walking, you will come to Womanang Pry School. You will cross a hanging bridge to get to the monastery after a short, flat trail. Guru Rinpoche came here and blessed the monastery.

The monastery is hidden in a beautiful valley among big religious rocks by a stream. It has a tiny waterhole in the rock near the monastery that is said to be as deep as the surrounding massive Tsenden (cypress) tree. The main ney is about a half-hour’s walk above the monastery. There are over 100 feats of Guru Rinpoche here, such as Guru’s bodily imprint, Guru’s chakar, Guru lhatsho, zambalai Ku, and Guru’s Drupchu, among other things.

The sacred cypress tree next to Dechen Phodrang is 78.9 meters tall. The tree is thought to be Guru Rimpoche’s walking stick. Guru summoned King Nowoche and King Sindha to the site of the current Lhakhang and established a monolith with both kings’ handprints.

The last destination today will be Rigsum Goemba, which was established by Lam Tshering Jamtsho in the 18th century with the purpose of protecting the country from external enemies and strengthening its sovereignty.

The 13th Lama, Choeki Dorji, had a vision that led them to the location of the monastery. After the passing of Lam Tshering Jamtsho, his nephew Jangchub Gyeltshen took responsibility for the temple’s maintenance and enlargement. 

Subsequent Lamas were important in the development of the monastery, including the construction of a five-story Lhakhang and the Chorten Kora stupa. The Jowo Shakya Muni statue, sculpted by Pentsa Deva and reputed to speak, became the focal point of devotion.

Rigsum Goemba is revered by successive Bhutanese Monarchs for its cultural and religious significance. It defends against external threats and serves as a repository for people’s merits. 

You will stay overnight at the hotel in Trashi Yangtse.

Day 29: Trashi Yangtse sightseeing – Omba Ney Trek day 1

After breakfast, we will travel around 40km (1.30 hours) from the hotel to Tsangphuchen Primary School under Toedtsho Gewog to begin the hike to Omba Ney (2,300m), also known as the Tiger’s Nest of Eastern Bhutan, Trashi Yangtse’s most sacred treasure. 

There are four routes that go to Omba Ney. The first path begins at Tsangphuchen Primary School – this is our route, the second at Toedtsho Primary School, the third at Kheni Toksing, and the fourth at Tsenkharla High School.

You will gradually ascend towards Omba village for 3 hours from the intersection of Toedtsho Primary School. The pathway passes through tiny village houses, dense forests, and a high suspension bridge over a gorge. Omba village is located at the base of the temple’s cliff. This is a secluded region, yet its people are really kind. 

You will find many more of Guru Rinpoche’s footprints along the last ascent. Because these sacred rock imprints might be difficult to recognize, there are numbered markers that define each print. You will see a statue of a serpent god. The deity allegedly confronted Guru Rinpoche when he was riding his horse there. The serpent terrified Guru Rinpoche’s horse, so Guru Rinpoche placed his hand directly on the deity, turning it into stone. After the tour, you will arrive at a small, steep slope leading to the temple.

While fences protect hikers on their way to Taktshang, there are no railings for the last stairs. Finally, as you approach the temple, glance out to the horizon to take in the breathtaking scenery. 

Omba Ney holds great spiritual significance for Bhutanese people, as it is one of the three Om Ah Hung Ney spots of Guru Rinpoche. The most notable feature of this sacred pilgrimage site is the naturally occurring “Om” symbol on the rock face. According to legend, Guru Rinpoche sanctified this location while pursuing a demon at Gom Kora.

The Cyprus tree (believed to be Guru Rinpoche’s walking stick) grows on the cliff of Omba Ney. It is over 84 years old and 24.3 meters tall. There is Schemia wallichii tree with 5 forks, and people believe it to be a Mandala offering.

This site has been visited by:

• The descendants of Guru Choewang
• Terton Pema Lingpa 
• Ani Choeten Zangmo – Pema Lingpa’s granddaughter

The wonders that you must see at Omba Ney:

• The letter “Om” on the rock face
• Narrow passage of the cave to cleanse our defilement
• Footprint of Guru Rinpoche
• Guru Rinpoche’s walking stick

You will stay overnight at the camp.

Day 30: Omba Ney – Gongza Ney – Trashigang

• Distance: 16km
• Estimated time: 4-5hrs
• Descent: 1,300 m

On the second day of the Omba Ney trek, you will reach Gongza Ney (930m). The majority of the trail is downhill, and you will follow the bank of the Gongri Chhu.

Gongza Ney is a corrupt version of ‘Gungja Ney (afternoon/noon tea). Guru Rimpoche traveled to Gongza Ney while following and chasing the demon Nyonpa, who was subsequently vanquished at Gomphu Kora. Guru arrived at noon and took his midday tea, Gungja. Thus, the location became known as Gungja – where Guru Rimpoche took his Noon Tea. 

Today, the Terdrom (stone treasure box), Guru’s Tshoglam (ceremonial boot), Khandro’s Baga (vulva), Garuda’s egg, Khandro’s skull, Auzha (guru’s hat), and other precious treasures are housed in this temple. They are all in Dotergi rangzhin (the essence of stone treasures). Its surroundings teem with numerous strangely shaped stones and other treasured/enshrined in indefinite stone forms.

The trek from Gongza Ney to Doksum will take about 1.5 hours. During the last trail section, you will encounter 3 massive boulders representing Rigsum Goemba. A short walk through green meadows and a small stream and you will be at Doksum. Tashi Gomang, Do Rangthang, Tsari Nyipa, Guru’s Zhugthri, and many more stone monuments may be observed along the river bank and on the walls encircling the temple.

Once at Doksum, a car will take you to the hotel in Trangshi Yangtse. 

Trashigang is dubbed “The Jewel of the East.” It is the most populated district in Bhutan, located at altitudes ranging from 600 to 4,000 meters. Trashigang is a crucial junction on the east-west route that connects all the way to the Indian plains in Assam. 

This region is noted for its multi-cultural backdrop since it is home to five ethnic groups: Tshangla, Dakpa, Brokpa, Khenpa, and Kertoep. Sakteng Wildlife Sanctuary, also part of Trashigang, is considered the home of the mythical snowman Yeti. 

You will explore Gomphu Kora (820 m) – Guru Rinpoche’s meditative cave for circumambulation. The Gomphu Kora temple was established on the gentle hill overlooking the Drangme Chhu, when Guru Rinpoche subdued a demon named Myongkhapa.

The site is thought to be over 360 years old and has been visited by many Buddhist masters:

• Guru Rinpoche
• Gongkhar Gyal, the grandson of Lhasay Tsangma
• Terton Pema Lingpa
• Yongzin Nagi Wangchuk, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel‘s grandfather
• The 4th Desi Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye
• Chogyal Minjur Tempa

Gomphu Kora is densely packed with religious sites. The region itself is a blessed land, with holy sites spanning from Tsergom in Jamkhar Gewog to Omba Ney and Gongza Ney along the riverbanks, including:

• A meditation cave of Guru Rinpoche
• Body impression of Guru on the rock
• A Tshebum, a life vase containing the water of immortality inside the rock
• A footprint of a Dakini, Tanag Tinkar’s hoof, garuda’s egg
• Gom Kora Tshechu

Before returning to the hotel, you will stop at Trashigang Dzong (Fortress of Auspicious Hill), standing on a thin promontory overlooking the confluence of the Drangme Chhu and the Gamri Chhu. The complex was built in 1667 by Mingyur Tenpa, Bhutan’s third desi. 

When viewed from the steep and narrow gorge formed by the river over time, the defensive structure on the hill appears to be towering and impenetrable. Legend has it that hostile Tibetan armies saw the dzong and fled in haste because the place appeared to be hovering like an unattainable “Sky Dzong.”

The largest Tshechu in eastern Bhutan takes place for 3 days in the Dzong’s courtyard in November/December. Many lama dances are performed in Trashigang to appease Yama, and the highlight of the Tshechu is the unveiling of a large thangka and the display of a statue of Guru Rinpoche on the last day.

You will stay overnight at the hotel in Trashigang.

Day 31: Trashigang to Paro

After breakfast, we will drive to Yonphula Airport and fly to Paro. It will take 1hrs45 minutes to reach Paro Airport. 

You will travel to Drakarpo Lhakhang in the afternoon. Its name means “the splitting of rock” – referring to the legend that Guru Rinpoche meditated at the site and split a rock into pieces, revealing an evil spirit hidden within. The split rock may be seen in the monastery’s altar chamber, which was moved from the mountaintop to its current location.

Locals believe circumambulating the monastery of Drakarpo 108 times is believed to cleanse one of its sins. On average, this may take about 4 days to complete. 

The monastery is a 10-minute walk from the parking lot. The short hike reveals a beautiful view of the surrounding valleys. Many footprints, handprints, and petrified artifacts, can be found along the trail, which are said to belong to a thousand Dakinis (celestial beings) who descended at the holy site.  

Many prominent Buddhist saints meditated at Dra Karp, such as:

• Guru Rinpoche 
• Khandro Yeshey Tshogyal
• Machig Lhabdron
• Namkhai Nyingpo
• Drupthob Thangthong Gyalpo
• Lam Drukpa Kinley
• Phajo Drukpam Zhingpo
• Vairochana

As you arrive at the monastery, here are the wonders you may admire:

• Guru Rinpoche’s boot and footprint
• A footprint of Choje Drukpa Kunley
• Dakinis’ field of accumulation
• A vase of amrita
• Guru Rinpoche’s throne
• Guru Rinpoche’s parasol
• A rock which the Guru broke and took out the demon of Drakarpo
• A Kilaya mandala
• A naturally arisen letter OM
• Wonderful seal of Guru Rinpoche, along with a clear mirror

Later, you will head to Dongkola Lhakhang, which sits on the highest peak between Paro and Thimphu. The Lhakhang was established by Tertoen Tshering Dorji. 

One of the many interesting stories surrounding the Dongkola Lhakhang in Paro is that nothing can be stolen from the monastery. There is a legend claiming this is because this place is guarded by 3 serpent sisters, namely Thinley Om, Dra-nam, and Bi-sha Om.

The Lhakhang houses several relics:

• The statue of Buddha discovered by Terton Pema Lingpa
• Guru Rinpoche’s statue, which is believed to have spoken
• A big bronze bowl that can’t be stolen
• Zhabdrung Rinpoche’s statue

You will stay overnight at the hotel in Paro.

Day 32: Paro sightseeing

Today, you will hike for 4-5 hours to get to Chomphu Ney. It is regarded as one of Bhutan’s top pilgrimage walks for individuals who enjoy getting close to untainted nature. The Ney is located in Paro at 3,100 meters above sea level.

Chumphu Nye holds significance since it is regarded as the second Tsari. Tsari Rongkor was the first tsari of Tibet. His Holiness, the ninth Je Khenpo Shakya Rinchen, discovered the Chumphu Nye. Guru Rinpoche returned to Chumphu Ney and meditated for two months after his memorable visit to Paro Taktsang Monastery (Tiger’s Nest) on the back of a tigress.

You will reach the Chumphu Ney hike’s starting point after an hour’s drive from Paro. The trail runs alongside a river and takes you through ancient forests. You will be able to enjoy the stunning beauty of wildflowers, lakes, trees, and plants. The sounds of nature – the murmur of a brook, the sweet melody of birds, the rustling of leaves —  will create a peaceful atmosphere that can rejuvenate your mind and body.

The hike will start by passing between two enormous rocks on either side of the walkway; these are thought to be the initial doors of liberation. Two more doors of liberation are present on the trail. One at the halfway point and the other when you are close to the temple. According to legend, passing through the three doors of liberation on this road can liberate one from the three lesser worlds of pain. 

The first stop is Sabu Lhakhang, a stunning temple dating back to the 16th century. The gate to heaven, Guru Rinpoche’s throne, an imprint of Guru Rinpoche, the ceremonial robe of the Guru on a rock, a stone vase containing the holy water of long life, and imprints of Dakinis are the wonderful sights along the way as one hikes up.

After about two hours, a side valley opens up to the left, and you can see the monastery above you. A kora (circumambulation) path branches left shortly after, ascending via sin tests, ladders, ledges, meditation caves, and natural stone pools to reach the temple. At this point, visitors can observe the imprint of Guru Rinpoche’s skull, which holds great spiritual significance. You may receive blessings if you touch your head on this sacred rock.

Finally, you will arrive at Chumphu Monastery. It sits on a hilltop, encircled by three crown-shaped mountains. An aerial view of the region depicts the monastery built in the middle, in the heart of the body, as an imaginary figure of a female wearing a crown.

The most precious relic is the floating statue of Dorji Phagmo (Vajravarahi) inside the monastery that defies gravity. Dorje Phagmo is said to have flown here and transformed himself into a statue. The statue of Dorji Phagmo was reportedly found by Terton Drukdra Dorji in the lake above the Monastery. It is believed that the original statue located in the lake was smaller, but the statue has grown to its current size on its own. 

Sacred wonders of Chumphu Monastery to admire include:

• The floating statue of Dorji Phagmo (Vajravarahi) defying gravity
• Numerous caves where Guru Rinpoche and his consorts, dakinis, and legendary scholars were believed to have meditated
• The gate to heaven
• Guru Rinpoche’s throne
• Imprint of Guru Rinpoche
• Ceremonial robe of the Guru on a rock
• Stone vase containing the elixir of Immortality
• Imprints of dakinis/ saints, and rocky cliffs said to contain secret jewels that will be revealed in degenerated times

Descend on the same route and then return to Paro town.

You will stay another night at a hotel in Paro.

Day 33: Discover Paro

In the morning, you will visit Ragoe Ney, located in Doteng gewog, Paro, at a height of about 2,800 meters. Drupthob Thongtong Gyalpo built it in the 15th century on a site blessed by Guru Rinpoche in the 8th century.

The monastery is 12km (45 minutes) from Paro town and an hour’s trek uphill from the base. It is a pleasant trail from the beginning, even for inexperienced hikers. You only have to climb 319 meters through pine, hemlock, and oak forests for 2km. Pilgrims will be blessed with numerous self-arisen religious artifacts as they begin their journey from ChhuKhor Choeten to Ragoe. 

Ragoe Guru Lhakhang is a traditional Bhutanese structure built against a cliff wall. The temple contains various wonders, such as the self-spoken figure of Guru Rinpoche, his footprint, lotus hat, and walking stick; the body of a mountain goat; the body of a vulture, etc.

According to legend, when Guru Rinpoche first arrived here, he used his walking stick to pierce the ground, causing the serpent to emerge from the lake. He covered the lake with his hat and caught the snake before it could run. 

The name Ragoe also has an intriguing backstory. Drubthob Phuentsa Dewa, a Jinzop of Zhabdrung, sculpted the copper statue of Guru Rinpoche at Thang Zo in Punakha in the 17th century. They adjusted their plans, however, because the statue specified that his principal location was in Paro. As the people debated where the status should go, a vulture and a goat appeared and took it to its envisioned location. The temple was thus given the name Ragoe.

Your next destination will be Dzongdrakha, often known as the second Taktshang, which is a well-known Nenying monastery in Bhutan. Guru Rinpoche sanctified it during his second visit to Bhutan from Tibet in 822 A.D. 

In 1428, Ngingmapa lama Karzhi Rinchen Samten Pelzang had a dream instructing him to find Guru Rinpoche’s treasures in Zhungphug, Moen Yuel. His disciple, Drubthop Gonpo Dorji, followed the instructions, guided by a jackal and a miraculous event with a child, to a location named Ghadrak. During meditation, he had a vision and discovered three relics and a crystal stupa, two of which flew away. He took the remaining treasures to a valley called Bangdey (now Bondey) where locals claimed ownership. He later built a Lhakhang (temple), named Dzongdrakha Goemba, to house the treasures, and spent the rest of his life there. The crystal stupa was named Chorten Karmogyel and is said to tremble on lucky days.

The complex consists of four shrines devoted to Drolma (Tara), Tsheringma (Goddess of Longevity), Guru Rinpoche, and the Buddha of the Future, Maitreya. The majestic Lhakhang rises on a cliff overlooking the fertile Paro valley, so don’t miss out on this spectacular landscape. 

It is recommended that you hike to Dzongdrakha, which is equally scenic and takes around 40 minutes through a forest of rhododendron and oak trees. It’s a great chance to experience Paro’s unspoiled natural beauty.

Several important figures who have been to this site are:

• Guru Rinpoche
• Jangchung Zangpo

Dzongdrakha’s sacred wonders that one should see:

• A crystal stupa (chorten) which is as long as an arrow
• Egg-shaped relic of Sangay Youelsum (karshapa)
• Meditation cave of Drubthob Gonpo Dorji
• Immovable statue of Buddha Sakyamuni
• Sacred dagger marks in a stone

Dzongdrakha celebrates an annual tshechu for 2 days. It is the second largest tshechu in the region, only after the Paro Tshechu hosted at Rinpung Dzong. One of the main blessings at Dzongdrakha occurs when the chorten (stupa) of the past Buddha is opened, allowing attendees to be blessed by the relic held therein. The complex consists of four shrines devoted to Drolma (Tara), Tsheringma (Goddess of Longevity), Guru Rinpoche, and the Buddha of the Future, Maitreya.

Then, you will explore Dungtse Lhakhang in Jangsa village, constructed by the Iron Bridge Builder Drupthob Thangtong Gyalpo in the 15th century. 

His goal was to counteract the negative effects of a ridge resembling a poisonous snake and frog, which he believed was causing leprosy in the area. The temple is built of stone, with twelve large pillars donated by different villages. After the temple’s construction, the number of leprosy cases declined. 

Dungtse Lhakhang, later expanded and renamed by Je Khenpo Sherab Gyalstshen in the 17th century, has a unique structure with three levels, each with specific features like doors and windows facing different directions. It was expanded in the 20th century, including the Khazang chorten and the Mani Dungkhor. The stupa is 63 feet tall and shaped like an Endhum Chorten, with elements made of brass and iron. Behind the temple is a cave called Lhamoi Neykhang, where the master meditated and saw Avalokiteswara. 

You will stay overnight at the hotel in Paro.

Day 34: Paro to Haa

• Altitude in Haa: 2,700m
• Distance: 70 km
• Estimated travel time: 2.5hrs

Today, we will drive to the southwest for Haa valley, hidden behind the high ridge of the Chele La Pass. Though hardly known to visitors, this remote valley is the ancestral home of the Dorji family, to which the queen grandmother, Ashi Kesang Wangchuck, belongs.

The Haa valley’s landscape can compete with other areas in Bhutan. It is a stunning valley ideal for hiking and mountain biking, with numerous chances to explore off the main route. The valley houses dozens of monasteries, each with its own history and myths to discover.

En route, you will visit Chele La Pass and Kila Gomba Monastery/Kila Nunnery. At 3,810 meters above sea level, Chele La Pass is the highest motorable point in Bhutan. The high mountain pass welcomes and charms visitors with the captivating sights of the unique White Poppy that grows on the surrounding mountain slopes and rainbow trout in the region’s large lakes. The White Poppy is unique to this region and cannot be found elsewhere.

Walk an hour downhill from the mountain pass, and Kila Nunnery will appear before us. Kila Nunnery was established as a meditation site in the 9th century and is said to be the oldest nunnery in Bhutan. Today, about 50 nuns pursue higher Buddhist college studies in a series of buildings drastically pressed against the cliffs.

After arriving in Ha, you will have a break, then head to discover Karpo Lhakhang and Nagpo Lhakhang. Both are only a 5-10 minute walk apart and are close to the Haa-Thimphu highway.

There are 2 versions explaining the names of these two buildings. The first version says that in the 7th century, Tibetan Dharma King Songtsen Gampo sent two consciousness-formed pigeons, one white and one black, to find sites for temples in the new land, which is now Bhutan. The white pigeon landed in Haa, western Bhutan; thus, the Lhakhang Karpo, or White Temple, was constructed here. The black pigeon landed near an invisible lake, resulting in Lhakhang Nagpo, or the Black Temple. Both temples were built in just a day and are considered twin temples. They are believed to be a part of the 108 temples Songtsen Gampo erected in the Himalayas.

Another explanation for the name “Haa” is the unexpected appearance of builders. The major figure in the White Temple is Amitayus, while the Buddha and a shifting self-formed lake can be seen in the Black Temple. A local tradition involving a raven and offerings led to a statement honoring the Haaps’ unique spiritual nature.

You will stay overnight at the hotel in Haa.

Day 35: Haa sightseeing

Enjoy a filling breakfast before we hit the road for 4-5 hours. The trek to Rongtsey Ney will take around 2 hours.

Rongtsey Ney is a holy location at the edge of Chego village under Gakiling Gewog, in the Haa valley. It nestles atop a bowl-shaped valley overlooking the Amochhu. Guru Rinpoche came to this place in the 8th century and blessed it as his sacred site, concealing numerous treasures that would be disclosed by his successors at later times. Its name at the time was Haa Sangbay Ney.

Despite its significance, it remained undisclosed until recently, when a book on Rongtsey Ney was published in 2019. The site is associated with prophecies and Guru Rimpoche’s miraculous birth and achievements, including subduing demons and converting them into protectors. A local saying highlights the harmonious community near the sacred site. The site’s upper part resembles a blissful land, while the lower part resembles hell, and it’s believed that Guru Rimpoche liberated all beings from this site. It’s revered as the holiest place on earth.

You will then trek back down to the car, return to the city, and spend the night at the Haa hotel.

Day 36: Haa to Paro

We will be driving back to Paro today. In the afternoon, you will come to Hungrel Dzong, a Sacred Site where the word “Hung” from the Buddhist Mantra “Om Ah Hung” may be observed.

The Hungrel Dzong is located on the other side of the Pa Chhu River from the main road. It can be reached from Paro’s main town in just 15 minutes. To access the Hungrel Dzong, one must cross a traditional wooden cantilever bridge.

In the 15th century, Drung Drung Gyelchog, the eldest son of Damtrul Loden Gyalpo and the fourth direct ancestor of Phajo Drugom, returned to Bhutan. He settled in Paro Tshongdu cremation but considered returning to Tibet due to religious conflicts in the region. However, his patrons convinced him to establish a permanent seat at Hungrel so that the people in Paro valley could become his primary patrons.

To accomplish this, he constructed a five-story compact mud Dzong on a cliff provided by the subjugated deity Hungrel Goenpo. This remarkable structure included a granary, assembly hall, and shrine room and was named Hungrel Dzong. It marked the beginning of a unified community under a shared faith.

At the historical site, there is a Goenkhang of Bjawog Nyap or Jowo Nep, also known as Hungrel Goenpo, and a spoken statue of Guru Sungjoenma. Directly below the Goenkhang are two holy waters named Jowo Drubchhu and Hungrel Drubchhu. These Drubchhus are believed to purify us from all impurities. The sacred term “Hung” can still be found at the Hungrel Ney.

You will spend the night at the hotel in Paro.

Day 37: Explore Paro

Today’s first visit will be to one of the most sacred pilgrimage sites in Bhutan – Taktsang Palphug Monastery or the Tiger’s Nest. This grand monastery stands miraculously on the side of a steep cliff, 900 meters above the bottom of the Paro valley. Many travelers to Bhutan aim to see this site, and though it requires some hiking, the journey will be highly rewarding.

In the 8th century, Guru Rinpoche blessed and concealed important locations in Bhutan, including the Taktshang Monastery in Paro. He transformed into Guru Dorji Droloe and defeated hostile spirits in the area, with the help of Tashi Kheudron, who took on the form of a tigress. Guru Rinpoche hid religious treasures and teachings on three yogas at Taktshang Pelphug and initiated Amityus and Vajrakilya into Khandro Yehey Tshogyal and Tashi Kheudron. They meditated on these two deities for four months. During their meditation, a mystical dagger that had defeated all eight classes of gods and demons in the border regions fell into the cave. This dagger can still be found in Pelphug Lhakhang. After mastering their routines, Khandro Yeshey Tshogyal and Tashi Kheudron demonstrated many miracles at this site. Guru Rinpoche then performed Tshogbum and Tashi Rabney and returned to Yonphu Taktshang in Tibet.

After Guru Rinpoche departed, Langchen Pelgye Singye meditated in the Taktshang cave. He was eventually buried there, and a stupa was built above him. This stupa is believed to grant wishes on auspicious days. Other spiritual leaders, Jetsun Melarap and Lam Phajo Drugom Zhigpo, also meditated there and had visions and prophecies from Guru Rinpoche. Guru Rinpoche even prophesied that this sacred site would be promoted and eventually taken over by someone.

Years later, Zhabdrung Ngawang Namgyel dreamed of Taktshang being offered to him while at the Rinpung dzong. The following day, Singye Samdrup, Taktshang’s guardian deity, appeared as a man and offered the place to Zhabdrung, marking his possession. Zhabdrung visited Taktshang in 1646 and considered building a temple there, but instead entrusted the responsibility to Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye. The temple’s foundation was initially challenging, but thanks to Gyalsey Tenzin Rabgye’s unique solution of using his own hair in the mortar, the building was completed in 1694, adorned with statues and antiques.

Taktshang’s sanctity grew over the years thanks to a number of saints who meditated in the cave:

• Mila Repa 
• Mahasiddha Pha Dampa Sangye
• Duesum Khenpa Karmapa Choekyi Dragpa
• Phajo Drugom Zhigpo
• Gyalwa Lhanangpa
• Rinchen Moenlam
• Nagi Rinchen
• Drubthob Thangthong Gyalpo
• Terton Pema Lingpa
• Machig Labdron
• Terton Lethro Lingpa

To get to the monastery, you will need to hike for about 3-4 hours. The path meanders through an enchanting blue pine forest, unveiling panoramic views of the Paro valley and majestic Himalayan peaks. Every step is rewarded with such captivating landscapes. As you journey through, you will see vibrant prayer flags, symbolic of Bhutan’s sacred spaces, dance in the wind. This experience offers more than just visual delights; it provides sensory rejuvenation. Immerse yourself in the revitalizing energy of the untouched forests. This pure essence soothes and nourishes your body, mind, and soul.

After entering, you can proceed to explore the buildings and appreciate the wonders inside:

• Drubkhang (Pelphu Lhakhang), the cave where Guru Rinpoche meditated for 3 months
• Self-formed image of Guru Dorje Drolo, the replica of the enlightened body
• Murals of Guru Tsengye, or eight manifestations of Guru Rinpoche
• Palchen Dorje Zhonu’s (Vajra Kilaya) self-arisen body
• Self-arisen stupa, the replica of the enlightened mind
• Self-arisen six syllables, the replica of the enlightened Speech
• Statue of Pema Jungme
• A rock image of Dorje Phagmo’s crown
• A holy spring
• An image of Gyalse Tenzin Rabgye
• The appearance of Tiger, Dorje Drolo’s ride
• The vision of the Protectors of the Three Families
• Other murals of deities and the 25 disciples of Guru Rinpoche

After the trip to Taktsang Monastery, you will head to Kyichu Lhakhang in the afternoon. This sacred temple is one of the earliest temples built by Tibetan King Songtsen Gampo in the 7th century. It has a fascinating history, as it was constructed to suppress a powerful ogress. It is believed to be one of the 108 chortens the Tibetan King had erected, and the ogress’s left knee was pinned down with Kyichu Lhakhang. 

The ancient monastery is an amazing place to see elderly pilgrims spinning prayer wheels as they walk around the temple. Inside, you will find two priceless statues of Jowo Jampa, originally from the 7th century. 

The Guru Lhakhang, located next to Kyichu Lhakhang, features Kurukulla and a 5-meter-high statue of Guru Rinpoche holding an arrow made of flowers and a bow. There are two magical orange trees outside the temple that bear fruit all year. Additionally, you can come across monk houses, prayer wheels, and Lenza lettering on tiny prayer wheels. 

Returning from Kyichu Lhakhang, you can unwind with a hot stone bath, a traditional form of relaxation for Bhutanese people after a long day at work. Herbs are added to the bath’s water, interacting with the stones’ minerals to improve health.

You will spend your last night at the hotel in Paro.

Day 38: Depart Paro

It’s time to say farewell to Paro and the magical kingdom of Bhutan. We hope that, with the assistance of our guide and driver, you have had a great trip. We hope to welcome you back to our country. Tashi Delek!